Day 4: Through Snowy Heights to Tales of Bravery in Arunachal Pradesh

Overview: Our journey on Day 3 led us deeper into the mystical mountains of Arunachal Pradesh, from the serene valley town of Dirang to the quaint hamlet of Kitpi near Tawang. What awaited us en route was nothing short of breathtaking — both in altitude and in experience.

❄️ Through the Snow-Clad Sela Pass

As we left Dirang early in the morning, the landscape gradually transformed. Our vehicle climbed through winding mountain roads, until we reached Sela Pass, a majestic high-altitude gateway standing tall at 4,170 meters (13,700 feet). Often mispronounced, the word "Se La" literally translates to “Sela Pass,” where “La” means pass in Tibetan.

The cold was biting, but the experience was ethereal. Fresh snow dusted the path, and a sense of tranquility blanketed the region. The Sela Lake, sitting close to the summit, was half-frozen and shimmered in the morning light like a glass mirror nestled among snowfields. Locals say there are around 101 lakes in this area, each considered sacred in Tibetan Buddhism — Sela Lake being among the most revered.

This mountain pass is not just a visual marvel; it’s a crucial artery that links the town of Tawang with Dirang and further down to Guwahati. Despite its high altitude and frequent snow cover, the pass remains accessible for most of the year, except during heavy snowfalls or landslides. It also holds the distinction of being among the highest motorable passes in the world.

Sela Pass

Sela Lake

🪖 A Tribute at Jaswant Garh Memorial

Descending from Sela Pass, our next stop was a solemn and stirring one — the Jaswant Garh War Memorial. Located near Nuranang, this site commemorates the exceptional bravery of Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat of the 4th Garhwal Rifles. His tale isn’t just etched in stone — it echoes in the mountains and in the hearts of every Indian who visits.

In 1962, during the Sino-Indian War, Jaswant Singh held his ground for an incredible 72 hours, resisting an overwhelming Chinese offensive single-handedly. He inflicted significant casualties on the enemy before laying down his life in defense of his post. His grit and gallantry earned him the Maha Vir Chakra, India’s second-highest military decoration for valor.

What’s even more touching is the way his legacy is kept alive — with a temple-like memorial where soldiers continue to stand guard, offering daily rituals in his memory. It’s not just a monument, but a living shrine of dedication and patriotism, standing tall at 10,000 feet and just 25 km before Tawang.

Jaswantgarh Memorial

🌊 Thunderous Beauty of Jung/Nuranang Falls

From this emotionally powerful place, we headed to nature’s own symphony — the Nuranang Falls, also known as Jung Falls or Bong Bong Falls. The falls are located near the small town of Jang, just off the main highway and a short drive away.

Towering at a height of 100 meters, the waterfall plunges down with such ferocity that you can feel its mist from a fair distance. Surrounded by lush greenery and cliffs, it’s one of the most impressive waterfalls I’ve ever witnessed. At its base lies the Jang Hydel Plant, a micro-hydro project that utilizes the river’s power to generate electricity for local settlements.

Interestingly, the Nuranang River, which feeds the falls, traces its origins to the northern slopes of Sela Pass. It joins the Tawang River a little further downstream. The river, as well as the falls, carry with them a poignant tale from the 1962 war. They are named in memory of Nura (or Noora), a local Monpa girl who aided Rifleman Jaswant Singh during the battle. Her act of courage and compassion is woven into the fabric of this landscape, making the place not just scenic, but soulful.

Jang Falls

Mysterious Chakzam Bridge

As we made our way from Nuranang Falls towards Kitpi, another gem awaited us—Chakzam Bridge, a rare relic of Himalayan engineering that carries centuries of legend and legacy.

Hidden amidst the towering Himalayan ranges and gushing waters of the Tawang Chu River, this bridge is no ordinary crossing. Known as Chakzam, meaning “Iron Bridge” in classical Tibetan, it was originally built in the 15th century by the legendary Tibetan engineer, Tangton Gyalpo. A disciple of the 1st Dalai Lama, Gyalpo was not just a philosopher and Buddhist master, but also a poet, visionary, and master bridge builder—earning him the title Iron Bridge Yogi.

It’s believed he constructed over a hundred iron chain bridges across the Himalayan region, including in Bhutan and Tibet. While Europe was still mastering 20-metre spans, Gyalpo was designing 100-metre iron marvels suspended over roaring rivers and steep gorges.

The Chakzam Bridge in Tawang, connecting Kitpi and Mukto, is one of just two surviving iron bridges of his in Arunachal Pradesh. Though modern support structures have since been added, including a newer suspension bridge beside it and a safety net underneath, the original construction still stands—held aloft by two iron chains, now over 600 years old.

As we approached the bridge, steep stone steps led us down through thick mountain air. At either end stood simple stupas guarding the bridge, echoing the spirituality of the land. From up close, the bridge felt like a living artifact—iron chains underfoot, woven wooden panels forming the floor, and brightly fluttering prayer flags lining the sides.

Walking across was an experience in itself—the bridge swayed and bounced, the river thundered beneath, and the mountains surrounded us like ancient sentinels. It wasn’t just a crossing—it was a journey through time.

Chakzam Bridge

Final Thoughts

Day 3 of our Arunachal journey was a blend of natural wonders, historical remembrance, and spiritual serenity. From the icy magic of Sela Pass to the bravery enshrined at Jaswant Garh, and finally the thunderous beauty of Nuranang Falls — it was a day that stirred every emotion and left us humbled.

If you’re ever in this part of the country, don’t just pass through these locations — pause, reflect, and soak in their stories. Because up here in the high Himalayas, every rock and river whispers tales of nature, faith, and heroism.

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