A Spiritual Sojourn Begins: Bhubaneswar, the Temple City of Odisha

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Overview: Our journey into the spiritual heart of Odisha began at Bhubaneswar, the capital city and a living museum of ancient temples, legends, and living traditions.

We chose to stay at Hotel Royal 91, conveniently located near the railway station to make commuting easy. A heartfelt shout-out to the hotel staff for their warm hospitality, their friendliness, attentiveness, and prompt handling of every request made our stay comfortable and welcoming right from the start.

Lingaraj Temple: Where Stone Meets the Sacred

Our first stop was the majestic Lingaraj Temple, one of the most revered shrines in eastern India. As expected, a long queue snaked its way across the temple precincts. With a child and senior citizens in our group, we opted for the assistance of a panda (temple priest) who offered a shorter entry route for ₹500.

While the priest did explain the temple’s history and significance reasonably well, the experience soured upon entering the kitchen area, where we were pressured to donate a minimum of ₹2,500 for bhog. The coercive nature of this demand, and the absence of a receipt felt unfair and deeply disappointing. Donations, especially in places of faith, should stem from devotion, not obligation. Unfortunately, such practices are not uncommon in some temples of southern Odisha.

That said, nothing diminishes the sheer awe inspired by the Lingaraj Temple itself.

Rising to a height of 180 feet, the temple is an architectural marvel dating back to the 11th century AD. Renowned historian James Fergusson described it as “one of the finest examples of a purely Hindu temple in India.” It represents the pinnacle of the Kalinga School of Temple Architecture, for which Bhubaneswar is celebrated. The vast complex houses nearly 150 subsidiary shrines, each adding to its sacred gravity.

Architecturally, the temple is divided into four principal components:

  • Garbhagriha (Sanctum Sanctorum)

  • Yajna Mandapa (Hall of prayer)

  • Natya Mandapa (Dance and music hall)

  • Bhoga Mandapa (Hall for sacred offerings)

The intricate carvings on the temple walls, depicting daily life, rituals, and cultural activities, transform the space into more than just a place of worship. In many ways, the temple functioned as a medieval community centre, blending spirituality, art, and social life seamlessly.

The presiding deity, Lord Lingaraj, is worshipped as a Swayambhu (self-originated) Shivling and is uniquely revered as Hari Hara, symbolising the syncretism of Shaivism and Vaishnavism. This harmonious blending of sects perhaps reflects the evolving religious landscape of Odisha during the temple’s completion, coinciding with the rise of the Jagannath cult.




Kedar Gouri Temple: Odisha’s Eternal Love Story

Our next stop was the Kedar Gouri Temple, steeped in one of Odisha’s most poignant legends.

According to folklore, Kedar, a simple village boy, fell in love with Gauri, a village belle. Opposed by their families, the couple decided to elope. Tragedy struck when Kedar was killed by a tiger while searching for food. Overcome with grief, Gauri leapt into a nearby pond, ending her life.

Moved by this tale of eternal love, King Lalatendu Kesari is believed to have built this temple in their memory. The presiding deity, Lord Shiva as Kedareswar, and Goddess Gauri continue to bless devotees. Even today, young couples visit the temple seeking blessings for marital harmony.

The temple comes alive during Sitalasasthi, a summer festival held before the onset of monsoons, symbolising the divine marriage of Lord Lingaraj and Goddess Gauri, a ritual believed to invoke relief from the harsh summer heat.







Odisha State Museum: A Treasure Trove of Heritage

After lunch, we headed to the Odisha State Museum, and it turned out to be far more expansive than we had anticipated. Established originally in 1932 and housed in its current building since 1960, the museum is a comprehensive archive of Odisha’s rich cultural and historical legacy.

Spread across eleven sections, the museum includes:

  • Archaeology

  • Epigraphy

  • Numismatics

  • Armoury

  • Mining & Geology

  • Natural History

  • Art & Craft

  • Contemporary Art

  • Patta Painting

  • Anthropology

  • Palm-leaf Manuscripts

The origins of the museum trace back to the efforts of historians and scholars such as William Jones, Ghanashyam Das, N.C. Banerjee, and Harekrushna Mahatab, who first established it at Ravenshaw College in Cuttack. Over the decades, the museum moved locations multiple times before finding its permanent home, the foundation of which was laid by Dr. Rajendra Prasad, India’s first President.

Even after spending nearly two hours, we could only skim through its vast collections, a testament to how deep and layered Odisha’s history truly is.






Calling It a Day… For Now

As the day wound down, we returned with tired feet but fulfilled hearts. Bhubaneswar had already revealed layers of spirituality, architecture, folklore, and history, and this was just the beginning.

We still have a few more places in Bhubaneswar lined up, which we plan to explore towards the end of our journey.

Stay tuned.. there’s much more of Odisha waiting to unfold.

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