the light baggage

Overview: There’s something about a sunrise ride — the cool breeze, the quiet roads, the thrill of the unknown. I and my friend Sridhar had mapped a plan to ride along the banks of the Cauvery, heading towards the village of Gopinatham on the Karnataka side of the river, close to the famed Hogenakkal Falls. We set off from Bengaluru at 4 AM, taking the scenic Malavalli–Kollegal route. The ride was smooth, with the early morning mist lifting gradually to reveal sun-dappled forests and quiet rural roads. We paused for a hearty breakfast near Kollegal — steaming idlis and crispy vadas that hit just right. As we continued, we stumbled upon a poignant memorial — a simple stone pillar dedicated to the victims of forest brigand Veerappan. Directly opposite this site was a breathtaking gorge carved by the Cauvery, almost as if nature itself was bearing witness to history. We eventually reached the quieter Karnataka side of Hogenakkal Falls. Unlike the bustling Tamil Nadu side, this area was s...

Overview: Sometimes, the most rewarding journeys happen in places that don’t scream for your attention. Nilambur, a quiet town at the foothills of the Nilgiris in Kerala, is one such gem—rich in history, soaked in greenery, and humming with stories that date back centuries. My journey began in Bengaluru. I boarded a night bus and woke up to the lush landscape of Nilambur, where mist-laced hills welcomed me with a kind of calm you rarely find in city life. The town is best known for something unique— the world’s oldest teak plantation . But as I’d discover, there’s a lot more tucked away in its trails and temples. Stop 1: Nilambur Kovilakam – A Palace by the River After a quick breakfast, I headed to the Nilambur Kovilakam , a majestic structure about 30 km from Malappuram. Once home to the local royal family appointed by the Zamorin of Kozhikode, this palace sits peacefully on the banks of the Chaliyar River . Walking into the Kovilakam feels like stepping into a living museum. T...

Overview: Day 7 began early as we departed from the quaint village of Kitpi, embarking on a long drive towards Shergaon. Unlike Day 3 when we crossed the snow-laden Sela Pass, this time we opted for a more modern route—the recently inaugurated Sela Tunnel. At an elevation of 3,000 metres (9,800 ft), the Sela Tunnel is a marvel of engineering and a game-changer for the region. It holds the distinction of being the world’s longest twin-lane tunnel at this altitude and forms a critical link between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, ensuring year-round connectivity to Tawang. The twin tunnels—Tunnel 1 (980 m) and Tunnel 2 (1,555 m)—are connected by a 1.2 km link road and significantly reduce travel time while avoiding the treacherous winter conditions of the Sela Pass, located 400 metres higher. This strategic infrastructure project, executed under BRO’s Project Vartak, not only supports civilian mobility but also strengthens defence logistics along the Indo-China border. One can’t help but m...

Overview: Our sixth day in Arunachal Pradesh began with the serenity of Zemithang , a quaint village embraced by rolling hills and crisp mountain air. Just a short stroll from our homestay, we found ourselves drawn to a quiet cave shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva . Tucked into the rocks and shrouded in mist, the cave housed a natural Shivalinga radiating a deep spiritual energy. It was the perfect way to start the day—introspective, peaceful, and humbling. Shiva temple at Zemithang After breakfast, we checked out and began our journey to  Kinzamane , a place not just beautiful but also deeply etched into history. It was here, in 1959, that  His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama  first stepped onto Indian soil during his dramatic escape from Tibet. Disguised as a soldier, he traversed the treacherous mountains for days on foot and horseback, accompanied by trusted officials and family. At Kinzamane stands a  sacred tree , believed to have miraculously grown from the very sta...