From Temples to Tides: A Day at Chilika Lake
Overview: Our journey continued from Bhubaneswar towards one of Odisha’s most celebrated natural wonders, Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest brackish water lagoon. Leaving the bustle of the city behind, the road gradually opened into quiet villages, wide skies, and salt-tinged air, hinting at the vast expanse of water that awaited us.
A Sacred Pause at Chandeshwar
En route to Chilika, we made a brief stop at a small hamlet called Chandeshwar, where we visited the revered Baba Chandihar Dev Temple, also known as the Chandihar Temple. This ancient shrine, dedicated to Lord Shiva worshipped as Baba Chandihar (the Lord of the Moon), is located on the Bhubaneshwar-Brahmapur road.
Built in the distinctive Kalinga architectural style, the temple stands as a fine example of Odisha’s temple heritage, with elegant brickwork and intricate carvings earning it the reputation of being a true “Gem of Odisha.” Devotees throng the temple to perform rituals like abhishekam and seek blessings for spiritual fulfilment and protection. The atmosphere here is deeply devotional yet grounded in rural simplicity, an unhurried pause before the journey resumed towards the lake.
Arrival at Chilika & OTDC Barkul
By noon, we reached the OTDC Resort at Barkul, situated along the tranquil waters of Chilika. Having previously stayed at tourism properties managed by KSTDC, MTDC, and APTDC, we arrived with certain expectations. While the resort scored well in some aspects, it unfortunately fell short in many others.
The rooms were spacious, and the balcony views overlooking Chilika Lake were undeniably beautiful, quiet waters stretching endlessly, reflecting the changing sky. However, the positives ended there.
The restaurant was poorly managed, to put it mildly. A simple lunch order took over an hour to arrive, and it was evident that several other guests were facing the same ordeal. The lack of coordination and urgency significantly dampened the overall experience.
A Cruise to Kalijai Island
In the afternoon, I headed to the boat booking counter and reserved a 3:30 pm cruise to Kalijai Island, home to the revered Kalijai Temple. Unfortunately, the experience at the counter mirrored what we had already encountered, unresponsive staff and unclear instructions, especially when questions were asked in Hindi.
That said, credit where it’s due, the cruise departed exactly on time. The boat ride across Chilika took about 30 minutes, offering glimpses of the vast lagoon and its calm, open waters. Reaching Kalijai Island, we visited the temple, spent some quiet moments there, and allowed ourselves a short break before the return journey.
However, the island itself was poorly maintained. Litter was visible across the area, and the lack of cleanliness was disappointing, especially given the religious and ecological importance of the site.
Back to Barkul: An Underwhelming End
We returned to the resort by 5:30 pm, hoping for a better experience during dinner. Unfortunately, the service remained below par. The staff appeared confused about menu options, orders were delayed, and overall coordination was lacking.
By the end of the day, it became clear that while Chilika Lake as a destination is extraordinary, the tourism infrastructure, particularly at this OTDC property, requires serious attention.
Final Thoughts
Chilika is a place of immense natural beauty, spiritual significance, and ecological importance. Sadly, mismanagement, poor service, and lack of basic upkeep can overshadow what should otherwise be a memorable experience.
I would rate this property quite low, and one sincerely hopes that the concerned authorities take constructive steps to improve facilities, staff training, and maintenance. With the right care and vision, Chilika truly deserves to shine as one of India’s finest wetland destinations.
The journey continues, but Chilika left us with mixed emotions.


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