the light baggage

Overview: Our journey into the spiritual heart of Odisha began at Bhubaneswar , the capital city and a living museum of ancient temples, legends, and living traditions. We chose to stay at Hotel Royal 91 , conveniently located near the railway station to make commuting easy. A heartfelt shout-out to the hotel staff for their warm hospitality, their friendliness, attentiveness, and prompt handling of every request made our stay comfortable and welcoming right from the start. Lingaraj Temple: Where Stone Meets the Sacred Our first stop was the majestic Lingaraj Temple , one of the most revered shrines in eastern India. As expected, a long queue snaked its way across the temple precincts. With a child and senior citizens in our group, we opted for the assistance of a panda (temple priest) who offered a shorter entry route for ₹500. While the priest did explain the temple’s history and significance reasonably well, the experience soured upon entering the kitchen area, where we were pr...

Overview: There’s something about a sunrise ride — the cool breeze, the quiet roads, the thrill of the unknown. I and my friend Sridhar had mapped a plan to ride along the banks of the Cauvery, heading towards the village of Gopinatham on the Karnataka side of the river, close to the famed Hogenakkal Falls. We set off from Bengaluru at 4 AM, taking the scenic Malavalli–Kollegal route. The ride was smooth, with the early morning mist lifting gradually to reveal sun-dappled forests and quiet rural roads. We paused for a hearty breakfast near Kollegal — steaming idlis and crispy vadas that hit just right. As we continued, we stumbled upon a poignant memorial — a simple stone pillar dedicated to the victims of forest brigand Veerappan. Directly opposite this site was a breathtaking gorge carved by the Cauvery, almost as if nature itself was bearing witness to history. We eventually reached the quieter Karnataka side of Hogenakkal Falls. Unlike the bustling Tamil Nadu side, this area was s...

Overview: Sometimes, the most rewarding journeys happen in places that don’t scream for your attention. Nilambur, a quiet town at the foothills of the Nilgiris in Kerala, is one such gem—rich in history, soaked in greenery, and humming with stories that date back centuries. My journey began in Bengaluru. I boarded a night bus and woke up to the lush landscape of Nilambur, where mist-laced hills welcomed me with a kind of calm you rarely find in city life. The town is best known for something unique— the world’s oldest teak plantation . But as I’d discover, there’s a lot more tucked away in its trails and temples. Stop 1: Nilambur Kovilakam – A Palace by the River After a quick breakfast, I headed to the Nilambur Kovilakam , a majestic structure about 30 km from Malappuram. Once home to the local royal family appointed by the Zamorin of Kozhikode, this palace sits peacefully on the banks of the Chaliyar River . Walking into the Kovilakam feels like stepping into a living museum. T...

Overview: Day 7 began early as we departed from the quaint village of Kitpi, embarking on a long drive towards Shergaon. Unlike Day 3 when we crossed the snow-laden Sela Pass, this time we opted for a more modern route—the recently inaugurated Sela Tunnel. At an elevation of 3,000 metres (9,800 ft), the Sela Tunnel is a marvel of engineering and a game-changer for the region. It holds the distinction of being the world’s longest twin-lane tunnel at this altitude and forms a critical link between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, ensuring year-round connectivity to Tawang. The twin tunnels—Tunnel 1 (980 m) and Tunnel 2 (1,555 m)—are connected by a 1.2 km link road and significantly reduce travel time while avoiding the treacherous winter conditions of the Sela Pass, located 400 metres higher. This strategic infrastructure project, executed under BRO’s Project Vartak, not only supports civilian mobility but also strengthens defence logistics along the Indo-China border. One can’t help but m...