Wheels of Time, Threads of Art, and the Call of Peace: A Day Across Coastal Odisha

Overview: Our day began in Puri, with a simple yet comforting local breakfast, 'Chilla', Odisha’s answer to the dosa of South India. Light, wholesome, and freshly made, it was the perfect way to start a day that would take us through centuries of art, empire, and introspection.

Konark Sun Temple: Where Stone Becomes Time

Post breakfast, we headed to the legendary Sun Temple at Konark, one of India’s most extraordinary architectural achievements and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built in the 13th century by King Narasimha Deva I of the Eastern Ganga dynasty, the temple was conceived as a colossal stone chariot of Surya, the Sun God. The structure is defined by its 24 intricately carved wheels, each a masterpiece in itself, symbolising the passage of time, and seven stone horses that once appeared to pull the chariot across the sky.

Designed in the classical Kalinga architectural style, the temple is celebrated for its extraordinary sculptural detail, ranging from celestial beings and scenes of everyday life to bold, sensuous imagery that reflects the completeness of human experience. Although the towering main sanctum has collapsed over time, the Jagamohana (assembly hall) and Natya Mandap (dance hall) still stand, bearing silent testimony to the temple’s former grandeur.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, Konark remains not just a monument, but a profound meditation in stone, on time, light, and human creativity.

Pipili: Threads That Carry Tradition

From Konark, we drove to Pipili, a vibrant craft town renowned for its traditional appliqué work, locally known as Chandua. This centuries old art form involves stitching colourful fabric pieces onto a base cloth to create striking patterns used in wall hangings, torans, cushion covers, umbrellas, and temple decorations.

Historically, Pipili’s appliqué was crafted for ceremonial canopies and umbrellas used during Lord Jagannath’s Ratha Yatra, and even today, most households here are involved in this craft. Walking through Pipili felt like stepping into a palette of colours, shops spilling over with textiles, mirrors, and patterns that spoke of devotion, celebration, and continuity.

We had lunch here, soaking in the energy of a town where art is not a product, but a way of life.

Dhauli: Where Conquest Gave Way to Compassion

Our final stop for the day was Dhauli, a serene hill on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, overlooking the banks of the Daya River. It was here that history took a dramatic turn.

Dhauli is associated with the aftermath of the Kalinga War, which profoundly transformed Emperor Ashoka. The site is marked by the striking white Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda), built in 1972, symbolising Ashoka’s embrace of non-violence and the path of Dharma.

Below the stupa are the famous Ashokan Rock Edicts, inscribed on a massive rock face, along with a remarkable rock-cut elephant sculpture, discovered accidentally by Markham Kittoe in 1837. Carved such that only the front half of the elephant emerges from the rock, it appears as if the animal is stepping out of stone itself, an image both powerful and haunting.

What makes Dhauli especially significant are its two unique Kalinga edicts, in which Ashoka instructs his officers to govern the newly conquered land with fairness, restraint, and compassion, explicitly discouraging harassment, unjust punishment, and coercion. These inscriptions mark one of the earliest recorded expressions of ethical governance.

As the sun dipped lower, Dhauli’s quiet hills offered a moment of reflection, on power, remorse, and the possibility of transformation.

Back to Bhubaneswar

From Dhauli, we returned to Bhubaneswar and checked back into Hotel Royal 91, which once again lived up to the warm hospitality we had experienced earlier in the trip. It felt reassuring to end such a layered day in a place that offered comfort and care.

From the cosmic wheels of Konark to the stitched stories of Pipili and the peaceful silence of Dhauli, the day unfolded like a journey across time, reminding us that Odisha is as much about inner reflection as it is about outward beauty.