Teak, Temples, and Timelessness — A Day in Nilambur

Overview: Sometimes, the most rewarding journeys happen in places that don’t scream for your attention. Nilambur, a quiet town at the foothills of the Nilgiris in Kerala, is one such gem—rich in history, soaked in greenery, and humming with stories that date back centuries.

My journey began in Bengaluru. I boarded a night bus and woke up to the lush landscape of Nilambur, where mist-laced hills welcomed me with a kind of calm you rarely find in city life. The town is best known for something unique—the world’s oldest teak plantation. But as I’d discover, there’s a lot more tucked away in its trails and temples.


Stop 1: Nilambur Kovilakam – A Palace by the River

After a quick breakfast, I headed to the Nilambur Kovilakam, a majestic structure about 30 km from Malappuram. Once home to the local royal family appointed by the Zamorin of Kozhikode, this palace sits peacefully on the banks of the Chaliyar River.

Walking into the Kovilakam feels like stepping into a living museum. The wooden beams and ceilings are adorned with intricate carvings, and the faded frescoes still whisper stories of a grand past. It was built following traditional Kerala architectural principles and is a marvel of craftsmanship. More than just a historical site, this palace reflects a time when art, governance, and nature lived in harmony.

Nilambur Kovilam

Nilambur Kovilam



Stop 2: Conolly’s Plot – The Birthplace of Teak Forestry in India

A short ride from the Kovilakam brought me to Conolly’s Plot, the world’s oldest organized teak plantation. This site, established in 1846, owes its name to H.V. Conolly, the then-Collector of Malabar, and to Chathu Menon, the man who made it happen.

Even today, the plot is alive with towering teak trees, including Kannimari, the first teak sapling planted here. It’s not just a forest—it’s a slice of forestry history. The area is bordered by two rivers, Chaliyar and Kurinjipuzha, and dense forest—making it incredibly scenic and serene.

I found a quiet spot under the shade of a tree and sat for a while. You could almost hear the rustling leaves narrate stories of colonial administrators, wartime timber demands, and Kerala’s deep respect for its natural wealth.

Conolly's Plot
Conolly's Plot
Conolly's Plot
Conolly's Plot
Conolly's Plot

Stop 3: Teak Museum – Where Timber Tells Tales

Next on the trail was the Teak Museum, located just a few kilometres away. Run by the Kerala Forest Research Institute, this is probably one of the most unique museums I’ve visited. It’s fully dedicated to teak wood and its significance in Kerala’s history and culture.

The museum starts strong—with a 55-year-old teak tree and its sprawling root system right at the entrance. Inside, the exhibits walk you through everything from ancient teak trees and seeds to miniature Uru boats built from teak, and even traditional Kerala granaries.

What stood out most was a 480-year-old teak stump brought from Kottayam and the detailed displays showing how teak is grown—from seed to sapling to tree. There's also a beautiful 800-meter nature trail around the museum filled with native trees and birds—a mini forest escape in itself.

Teak Museum
Teak Museum
Teak Museum
Teak Museum
Old DFO Bungalow
Skywalk near the Bungalow


Lunch at Nayana Restaurant – A True Kerala Treat

By now, I had worked up quite an appetite. I stopped at Nayana Restaurant, a simple vegetarian joint known for its local meals. Their traditional Kerala sadya—served on a banana leaf—was just what I needed. It was soulful, flavourful, and comforting after all that walking.


Nayana Restaurant

Nayana Restaurant

Final Leg: Scenic Train Ride from Nilambur Road to Palghat

Post lunch, I made my way to Nilambur Road Railway Station. The station itself is small, but it’s surrounded by trees, adding to its charm. I boarded the Nilambur Road–Palghat Express, a short but scenic ride through Kerala’s countryside.

As the train moved past rivers, fields, and little forest stretches, I sat by the window, watching the day wind down in shades of green and gold. It was the perfect end to a day filled with heritage, nature, and quiet wonder.


Nilambur Road Railway station

Nilambur Road Railway station


Final Thoughts

Nilambur is not a loud destination. It doesn’t try to impress you. It just quietly enchants you—with its teak trees, royal tales, old train tracks, and kind people. For anyone looking to explore the lesser-known corners of Kerala, Nilambur is a beautiful, meaningful place to start.

And sometimes, that’s all you need—one good journey to remind you how deep the roots of a place (and of yourself) can go.

Comments

  1. What a presentation Arun . Proud of you

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